Declawing Cats

NEVER, EVER, EVEN THINK OF DECLAWING YOUR CAT. IT IS A BARBARIC AND HURTFUL PRACTICE THAT IS ACTUALLY ILLEGAL IN ELEVEN MORE ENLIGHTENED COUNTRIES THAN AMERICA.

You will hear myriad reasons why it is okay or even “good” to declaw your cat. Veterinarians, friends, experts, technicians, people who have declawed cats . . . all will be more than happy to make you feel good about maiming your new friend. The only real reason that any of these people have is greed. Some veterinarians will be glad to take your money for such a purpose. They may in fact even tell you that it doesn’t hurt the cat. Why then, must the cat walk around bandaged for weeks after? Why must the cat use paper instead of sand in the litter box if its paws don’t hurt? Why is your friend wearing an Elizabethan Collar so that he can’t lick the deep wounds? Declawing is barbaric. Declawing is painful. Declawing leaves your cat with no defenses . . . can you guarantee protection 100% of the time? If you have expensive furniture that is more important than a living being and if you are so engrossed with your belongings that if they were to be scratched (even ruined) it would ruin your life then you should not have a cat! If a child breaks something is the punishment dismemberment. Shall we cut off the child’s hands? Some people think so.

Let us define what the practice of declawing is. In order to stop cat’s claws from growing back it is necessary to cut your friends paws at the first joint. Compare this concept to yourself. Or perhaps you would like to “declaw” your child. You need to use an extremely sharp instrument and cut off their fingers at the first joint. Now you have an animal that cannot defend itself and is maimed for life.

Please, do not declaw your friend! There is no good reason for such a despicable and hurtful practice. I would like to meet those of you who think otherwise so that I can place your hands on a table and severe your fingers with a meat cleaver.

Having addressed the issue of declawing and made a firm decision against it, let’s return to welcoming your new Zen Cat. And guess what? All of your worry over having your furniture scratched is unfounded. A Zen Cat is at peace with itself and will not scratch your possessions. It is also possible to train almost any cat not to scratch certain items.

One simple deterrent to scratching is to provide your friend with its own scratching post. Another is the use of spray on pheromones that make a cat feel that your couch (as an example) is something “marked” as a place that is good, friendly and should not be touched except to rub against lovingly. There are also small rubber “sleeves” called “SoftPaws” than can be placed on your friend’s nails shielding them from doing any damage. Making a practice of trimming your cat’s nails at least monthly (when you apply his flea and tick medication) is a good practice. Finally, there are devices that use the “invisible fence” principal. If your cat jumps on your precious leather sofa with the intention of honing his nails then a small electrical shock will deter him. I do not recommend these devices but I would rather your cat received a minor shock (that will eventually teach through negative re-inforcement) than to have your cat bloodied by declawing. (Declawed cats bleed profusely for at least two weeks and people say this doesn’t hurt!)

So far we have sprayed facial pheromones such as Feliway Brand on the corners of each item that you want the cat to respect. This must be done on a weekly basis until the cat learns to “like” this piece of furniture and that scratching (or spraying) is off bounds. We have provided a high quality scratching post for your cat to do what is only natural. Next we must address cleanliness and privacy.

from "The Zen Cat"
by Michael Sutton

Zen Cats (First Meeting)

For the purposes of this book we will proceed under the assumption that you and your Zen Cat are new found friends. As such you require the appropriate introductions. Let us further assume that your Zen Cat is a “saved” cat; one that has been abused or abandoned by less enlightened individuals. As such, you are the cat’s new friend and savior. Indeed, you may literally have saved your cat from a horrible death. It is a fact that cat’s left to fend for themselves in the “wilds of suburbia” have a lifespan of approximately five years. The same cat, under your care, can easily live to be 14, 15 even 20 years.

There are many animal shelters and sanctuaries that always have an over abundance of cats requiring good homes. There is also the possibility of actually taming a feral cat on your own but we will cover that in the chapter on feral cats. For our purposes let us assume that you have visited your local animal shelter, fallen in love with a domestic shorthair cat, filled out the adoption paperwork (cats are not just given to anyone as they are living creatures), and are ready to take your cat to his/her new home. In order to accomplish this task you will require a suitable cat carrier. At no time should you try to move a cat from one place to another by holding it, wrapping it or otherwise trying to restrain it. This action will make your cat fearful and in trying to escape the cat will probably do you some damage in the form of scratches and/or bites. Cat carriers can be purchased at any pet shop for reasonable amounts of money and you and your cat will enjoy a safe and uneventful trip home. Some shelters also stock cardboard carriers for one time usage if you find yourself in a position without an appropriate carrier. This cardboard “box” will normally be collapsible, have just enough room when opened to hold an average size cat (9 to 12 pounds) and will have breathing holes and a carry handle. This is a perfectly safe and convenient device for the initial transportation of your cat but should be viewed only as a stopgap measure and a larger and more comfortable carrier should be purchased.

from "The Zen Cat"

by Michael Sutton